2012/10/25

eating and drinking in pisserenden | copenhagen


Pisserenden is actually not a very nice word in Danish. Translated into English it means the pissoir... The name is of course not the official name of this neighborhood, but all Copenhageners only call it by this nick name. As disgusting as it may sound the name is to be taken literally. This area used to be full of wine bars and prostitutes (we are talking circa 100 years ago), and this made indeed many men urinate in the street (A phenomenon which unfortunately is still alive in Copenhagen, especially on Friday and Saturday nights).

The area goes from Nørregade to Vestergade and from Larsbjørnsstræde (starting at Strøget) to Teglgårdsstræde - more or less. Some of the most famous streets which constitute Pisserenden, are besides the already mentioned Larsbjørnsstræde and Teglgårdsstræde, Studiestræde and Skt. Pedersstræde.

The area is full of bohemian cafes, great shops including vintage shops, many night clubs and bars and lots of colors (literally speaking both in terms of the houses and the many graffitis and posters on the walls of the buildings).

This is probably my all time favorite neighborhood in Copenhagen. I used to work here in an Italian pizzeria called Il Santo, which has now closed down, and I remember the very particular spirit of this area of Copenhagen where everybody knows each other, where all kinds of people from all kinds of society classes meet and live side by side. If I were to move back to Copenhagen some day, this would definitely be a place where I would love to live.



Sankt Peder's Bakery

Now Danish bakeries are in general something to try when you visit Copenhagen as a tourist. There is a reason why a certain kind of international morning pastry is called "Danish". This pastry represents the kind of pastries we Danes eat for breakfast on special occasions (NOT every day!). And the good news? If you have tried a "Danish" outside Denmark you still need to try the real stuff. Real Danish morning pastries have nothing to do with the international stuff!

Skt. Peder's Bakery is the oldest bakery in Copenhagen and especially famous for their "Onsdagssnegle" which is a kind of Danish morning pastry which this bakery is famous for all over Copenhagen. Onsdag means Wednesday and snegle means Snails and it is indeed on Wednesdays that you can buy these gigantic cinnamon snails covered with glaze on the top. People stop by in the morning to bring loads of pastries to their office to share with the colleagues, or they simply buy one for themselves to keep them company on their way to work. It is said that more than 4000 snails are sold here every Wednesday!

But it's not only on Wednesdays that you can buy something special at Skt. Peder's Bakery. Every day has it's own specialty, and every day has its own colour, which means that the colour of the aprons of the staff changes every day.

Skt. Peders Stræde 29. T. +45 33111129


Halifax

In 2004 two Danes met in Canada during their studies abroad. They met in the city called Halifax and right here was where the idea to a burger restaurant in Copenhagen started.

Three years later the first Halifax restaurant opened in Frederiksborggade near Nørreport. I have had several vegetarian burgers in here accompanied by the most delicious homemade fries and dips.

The great thing about Halifax, besides everything being homemade and extremely delicious, is the fact that you "build" your own burger from scratch. First you choose between 8 "styles" which constitute the filling in the burger. These can be the traditional "København" with salad, tomatoes, red onions, cheddar cheese, pickles and chipotle or you can choose a more exotic style e.g. the Palermo which is based on blue cheese or what about a Greek style with red onions, tzatziki, cucumber, salad, feta and olive tapenade?

Next step is choosing the beef. There are five different kinds among which two are vegetarian. (Not bad for a burger restaurant!). Now your burger is ready and you need to choose what you want it to be accompanied by. You can have homemade fries or mashed potatoes, mixed salad or tortilla chips. Last but not least you need to choose one of the five different dips.

Prices are cheap, (a burger with fries costs around 120 DKK or 16 euro) and the service is great. This is actually a restaurant, not a simple burger place. You find Halifax in three different places in Copenhagen, one of which is in Pisserenden.

Larsbjørnsstræde 9. T. +45 33 93 80 90  www.halifax.nu


Atlas Bar and Flyvefisken

One of my absolute favourite places when eating out in Copenhagen is Atlas Bar in Larsbjørnsstræde. Many dishes are vegetarian, they are enormous and they are everything but Danish!

The menu is divided into meat/fish and vegetarian dishes. As a vegetarian I will concentrate on this last part of the menu. Lasagne, tortilla, burrito, huge salads, pies, risotto or fried rice or noodles with vegetables...did I mention that everything is delicious? You cannot have one favorite dish here. I recommend you come back again and again and again to try it all.

On the first floor you find Flyvefisken, which is another fantastic restaurant with thai food, a little less casual and more expensive, but definitely also worth all the money.

Larsbjørnsstræde 18. T. +45 33150352 www.atlasbar.dk

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